Arrived on a sweaty bus in Assisi and then a sweatier walk to find the accommodation. Assisi is built on a hill, so there are steep slopes, thankfully downhill at this point, but in the back of my mind as a drag my suitcase down cobbled roads and steps, is the knowledge that wheresoever you go down, you will have to return up. In 32 degree heat lugging luggage. Hmmm. Maybe a taxi to the station will be a good idea.
Accommodation found, and it's spacious and unexpectedly modern in this little town of ancient buildings. And there's air con. Actually I booked every room on Booking.com based on reading all the reviews, the location and whether it had air con.
Luggage dropped, a little shower, change and time to walk to see things.
Arcevia was medieval, charming and small, Perugia larger and aesthetically storied, Assisi is just exquisite, laid out on hills, perfectly kept, and in the centre there dominate the giant pillars of the ancient Roman temple of Minerva, converted to a church, the first I've seen like that. It is drenched in saints and Catholicism and drowning in tourists. Most of them day visitors, so the evening was slightly less busy. The entrance to the St Francis Basilica was not impossible, although after the luxury of a quieter Perugia, it felt very crowded. In retrospect that was nothing in comparison to the throngs I would encounter in Florence and Rome.
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| St Francis Basilica (Upper) |
The upper and lower Basilica of St Francis are just beautiful. Frescoed and lovely, tourists milling, but still felt somewhat spiritual. Or maybe it's just that St Francis was for the animals, so I always connected a little more with his story.
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| St Francis Basilica (Lower) |
enjoying the ice-cream, a little breeze and some people watching. A visit inside the church reveals a baroque-style, overly ornate and gilded, but small and quiet and a short respite from the heat.
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| Santa Maria sopra Minerva |
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| Walkways and arches |
More wandering and enjoying the little streets and shops, (definitely a movie set), views out over the city below, the hills rolling, a slight breeze was delicious. Visited St Clare's basilica, where some nuns were chanting prayers in one of the chapels, how atmospheric. Plenty of actors in Assisi...
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| Assisi actor |
Sitting outside St Clare's (Santa Chiara) enjoying the views of the fortress in the hill and the bells of all the many churches start to peal, ding dong all over the town, more atmosphere. My mum reminded me to listen out for the Angelus bells at 6pm. That was them. Although at the time I didn't know that. Extremely lapsed Catholic - had totally forgotten about the existence of the Angelus. Now remember everyday at school having to stop at 12 for angelus - say a Hail Mary and then in with the lesson.
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| Assisi - view of Rocca Maggiore |
Walked and walked up and down down and up, and according to my iPhone, climbed, not 39 steps, but 39 FLIGHTS of stairs. My poor plantar fasciitis-ridden foot...
Dinner was Torta al testa in a little cafe, finally giving it a try. It's kinda like a tramezzini, bread toasted yumminess. Not healthy though. Eataly indeed.
Note to self: Don't book for one night anywhere, two night minimum. One night - gives too little time to relax and look, and too much time spent worrying about how to get there and away. I could have spent another day happily in Assisi, and climbed a few more flights to see the Rocca Maggiore. But... next time.
So next morning pack up ye olde suitcase and drag down ye olde streets once more. To the taxi stand where no taxi ever goes it seems. Lucky there was a bus stop nearby, and two buses, at the station ready for the next leg of the journey. Google maps, you beauty.
Buying a local sim card with a fair amount of data, google maps and Trainline are the most useful travel accessories for Europe travel. Trainline lets you find a train and buy the ticket in the app using PayPal or credit card. Very convenient.
Next stop Siena...
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| Next stop: Siena |
