Wednesday, August 22, 2018

Italy 2018: Perugia

Nothing quite prepared me for the magnificence of the old part of Perugia. 
Piazza Novembre IV
Susanna dropped me at the start of the main pedestrian street and I dragged ye olde red suitcase down ye olde streets. So beautiful. Already. After an altercation with google maps and some back and forwards irritated walking I managed to find the BnB 
(Side bar: if using google maps when walking, and she asks you to head south west, and you have no clue which way is up, use the compass that comes with your phone, or download one, it made life way easier thereafter!) 


The BnB so happened to be right opposite a shop called Cannabis Smile. It seems cannabis with a certain level of active ingredient is legal  in Italy. Who knew? Wasn't tempted in the slightest though. Being in this place was mind blowing enough already, no help needed. 

The first of my booking.com places, BnB La Naiada was delightful, albeit up a couple of flights of pretty steep stairs. But the warm host, Paula, kindly took my suitcase up for me, who was I to refuse? Comfortable and quirkily decorated, air con, little private bathroom, and a really good breakfast. And the best part - smack in the middle of the old town. Booking.com success yet again, so far so good in Italy. 
And so after settling in, I started to walk and wander, no agenda.  And I walked and walked. And jaw dropped and dropped. The majesty of Perugia's cathedral, and the aesthetically marvellous turn of street, walkway with an arch here and winding steps there. I loved it all. 



Perugian Walkways 1

Perugian Walkways 2


Views from the town wall of the hills stretching out with buildings on them here and there, all neatly arranged. 


View

Spent several hours in the National Museum of Umbria, my first experience of gilded polyptychs and frescoed ceilings. Also a special exhibition of photographs by a famous Photographer called Harari, who photographed just about every famous musician on the planet. I loved this exhibition, some iconic images of artists, pictures that were familiar to me, nice to know who the photographer was. 


More walking and late lunch. Susanna had recommended that I try Torta al Testa at a specific place,but I was too late, they were sold out. Must be good, note to self to try tomorrow. So instead a small overpriced sandwich in one of the central restaurants. Meh. Further note to self: Don't eat in any central tourist area restaurants. I really should know that by now. Anyhoo, dinner was in a marvellous place that served fresh water fish ( delicious but a lot of bones)  next to the enormous Lake Trasimeno courtesy of Susanna and Francesca. Beautiful place, outside of Perugia. 

Much more wandering next day. Loved the city beneath a city, so fascinating how that came about. More Churches: the magnificent San Pietro, more jaw dropping. Extremely ornately decorated, floor to ceiling, so much art, so much work in every corner of the place. Wandered through the medieval garden behind the Church, which was interesting but sadly quite unkempt and neglected, maybe bad time of year?  The layout of it was interesting though. 



Interior, San Pietro, Perugia
Ceiling, San Pietro


More wandering and oohing and aahing and more little churches. More art in the churches. What a time the 14th and 15th centuries must have been if you were a man and a decent artist. Lots of gigs in sculpting and painting. 

A visit to Rocca Paolina, the underground city. I t was once a fortress, built atop ancient Etruscan roadways, which was torn down in a rebellion. What remains are pathways and some building remnants. 
Here is some background information about it: 
https://www.viadelvino.com/story-of-perugias-rocca-paolina/
You can walk through the well-preserved old passageways which are underneath the present day surface. So fascinating and quite magical. 

City beneath a city


And soon it was gelato' clock again, and I stopped a funky little place called Lick. Best. Gelato. In. Italy. And I tried a lot (writing this after Siena, Florence, on the train to Rome, let's see how you measure up) Such interesting flavours. I had chocolate with orange and cinnamon. Yuuuuuuum. 


Amazing gelato...


More walking and a visit to an exhibition of Renaissance paintings in a palazzo. That was fun - first experience of a palazzo with painted ceilings in the 17th century style. 
More wandering and later a visit with Susanna and Francesca to a festival held in a small medieval town just outside suburban Perugia (I think), Corcina was the name. Beautiful little place, smaller than Arcevia. Like Susanna says - it's not real, these places are like a movie set. These kind of ancient places are almost too beautiful and aesthetically perfect, and the people who inhabit them are actually just actors. Including the cats. Hehe. I like that. 


After a little rest of aching feet and air con blast, I set out to forage for dinner. Settled on a charming place in a picturesque little piazza, and ate a decent ravioli, but nothing has topped the Arcevia Park Hotel"s gnocchi yet... 


Perugia selfie


Next day time to pack up, and mission to the bus station, which was not too far to walk to, a little wait for the bus to Assisi, sweating in the shade. Here comes the bus, onward ho.



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