Italy 2018: Perugia

Nothing quite prepared me for the magnificence of the old part of Perugia. 

Piazza Novembre IV

Susanna dropped me at the start of the main pedestrian street and I dragged ye olde red suitcase down ye olde streets. So beautiful. Already. After an altercation with google maps and some back and forwards irritated walking I managed to find the BnB 

(Side bar: if using google maps when walking, and she asks you to head south west, and you have no clue which way is up, use the compass that comes with your phone, or download one, it made life way easier thereafter!) 


The BnB so happened to be right opposite a shop called Cannabis Smile. It seems cannabis with a certain level of active ingredient is legal  in Italy. Who knew? Wasn't tempted in the slightest though. Being in this place was mind blowing enough already, no help needed. 

The first of my booking.com places, BnB La Naiada was delightful, albeit up a couple of flights of pretty steep stairs. But the warm host, Paula, kindly took my suitcase up for me, who was I to refuse? Comfortable and quirkily decorated, air con, little private bathroom, and a really good breakfast. And the best part - smack in the middle of the old town. Booking.com success yet again, so far so good in Italy. 
And so after settling in, I started to walk and wander, no agenda.  And I walked and walked. And jaw dropped and dropped. The majesty of Perugia's cathedral, and the aesthetically marvellous turn of street, walkway with an arch here and winding steps there. I loved it all. 

Perugian Walkways 1

Perugian Walkways 2

Views from the town wall of the hills stretching out with buildings on them here and there, all neatly arranged. 

View

Spent several hours in the National Museum of Umbria, my first experience of gilded polyptychs and frescoed ceilings. Also a special exhibition of photographs by a famous Photographer called Harari, who photographed just about every famous musician on the planet. I loved this exhibition, some iconic images of artists, pictures that were familiar to me, nice to know who the photographer was. 


More walking and late lunch. Susanna had recommended that I try Torta al Testa at a specific place,but I was too late, they were sold out. Must be good, note to self to try tomorrow. So instead a small overpriced sandwich in one of the central restaurants. Meh. Further note to self: Don't eat in any central tourist area restaurants. I really should know that by now. Anyhoo, dinner was in a marvellous place that served fresh water fish ( delicious but a lot of bones)  next to the enormous Lake Trasimeno courtesy of Susanna and Francesca. Beautiful place, outside of Perugia. 

Much more wandering next day. Loved the city beneath a city, so fascinating how that came about. More Churches: the magnificent San Pietro, more jaw dropping. Extremely ornately decorated, floor to ceiling, so much art, so much work in every corner of the place. Wandered through the medieval garden behind the Church, which was interesting but sadly quite unkempt and neglected, maybe bad time of year?  The layout of it was interesting though. 

Interior, San Pietro, Perugia

Ceiling, San Pietro

More wandering and oohing and aahing and more little churches. More art in the churches. What a time the 14th and 15th centuries must have been if you were a man and a decent artist. Lots of gigs in sculpting and painting. 

A visit to Rocca Paolina, the underground city. I t was once a fortress, built atop ancient Etruscan roadways, which was torn down in a rebellion. What remains are pathways and some building remnants. 
Here is some background information about it: 
https://www.viadelvino.com/story-of-perugias-rocca-paolina/
You can walk through the well-preserved old passageways which are underneath the present day surface. So fascinating and quite magical. 

City beneath a city

And soon it was gelato' clock again, and I stopped a funky little place called Lick. Best. Gelato. In. Italy. And I tried a lot (writing this after Siena, Florence, on the train to Rome, let's see how you measure up) Such interesting flavours. I had chocolate with orange and cinnamon. Yuuuuuuum. 

Amazing gelato...

More walking and a visit to an exhibition of Renaissance paintings in a palazzo. That was fun - first experience of a palazzo with painted ceilings in the 17th century style. 
More wandering and later a visit with Susanna and Francesca to a festival held in a small medieval town just outside suburban Perugia (I think), Corcina was the name. Beautiful little place, smaller than Arcevia. Like Susanna says - it's not real, these places are like a movie set. These kind of ancient places are almost too beautiful and aesthetically perfect, and the people who inhabit them are actually just actors. Including the cats. Hehe. I like that. 


After a little rest of aching feet and air con blast, I set out to forage for dinner. Settled on a charming place in a picturesque little piazza, and ate a decent ravioli, but nothing has topped the Arcevia Park Hotel"s gnocchi yet... 

Perugia selfie

Next day time to pack up, and mission to the bus station, which was not too far to walk to, a little wait for the bus to Assisi, sweating in the shade. Here comes the bus, onward ho.

Italia 2018: Bucket list tour. Arcevia 1

Long time Bucket list place to visit and here I am at last. Writing from the Assisi train station. Had contemplated not writing anything. On many previous trips to Asia, Europe I didn't write anything about them. Part of my introvert ridiculousness I think. The thought process: why would anyone be interest in my ramblings? They're probably not, but here I am writing, and it is really more for me and my ageing memory... One day, if I manage to reach a great age and wish to reminisce, I'll have some help. And it's likely that the age of Instagram memories will have long faded, replaced by some other impermanent life-journaling mechanism. Ramblings in a station. Let's start:


Roma first, to stay with wonderful Susanna for a few days. Couch sleeping, but comfy and fun times in the Tiger Shop with Susanna and Mike playing with sunglasses and grunting plastic pigs!

Evening brings a radio interview at RAI, the national broadcaster, like SABC. Radio One with Massimo (I think?, everyone calls him Max). Somewhat different to the radio interviews I'm used to - in chat for 5 min, 10 min max, out. Here we were asked to be there for the full 2 hour show, while Max played music and chatted to his guests. Other guests were a pianist from Brazil, but living in Rome, and a producer of another Brazilian project.

Of course a lot of Italian, with Susanna doing her best to translate for us. A few questions for Mike and then me, and a song played for each, more Italian chats with the other guests and lots of varied music . Max loved my song, asked to keep the CD for play listing. Whoop whoop I'm play listed in Italy!


After a late dinner we were treated to 1am sight seeing and stopped to admire St Peters all lit up and resplendent without a tourist in sight - ciao Roma!

St Peter's at 1am

Next day to Arcevia in Susanna's car, piled to the roof with suitcases, real books and jazz improv books, a motorbike helmet and half a fan. She likes to be prepared.

Winding through Italian countryside Umbria and then Marche, beautiful farmlands and hills and modern ugly buildings interlaced with some old ones. Up and up and more picturesque as we went.

Finally Arcevia, to the old part, a beautiful medieval town on the hill.

Room with a view...

The old Park hotel was to be our home for the next 7 days; old hotel reminded me of some hotels in Zim, still preserved in 80s decor, complete with fading fabric flowers in a giant vase on the staircase landing. But clean and comfy and the view from my window... Never tired of staring at that every morning and evening.


What a surreal experience, to wander through the ancient cobbled streets and admire the old medieval buildings, looming 2 or 3 stories high.

Ancient streets of Arcevia

Ancient entrance

Next to meet the director and a few other teachers of the Arcevia Jazz Feast for a pleasant dinner in the dining hall. The week started in earnest the next day with meeting the students, hearing each of the singers, as every instrument's participants are graded and then put into ensembles of similar playing level for the week. I love that this is one of those jazz camps that has no age limit, so you have young folk (15 was the youngest) interacting and learning alongside older folk, for who, the week is a holiday treat, where they escape from other jobs and play jazz all day.

The workshops are held in the elementary school. Which has no air con. As I sat sweltering in one of the sun-beaten classrooms it became apparent to me: There is a reason they send the kids home for the summer... Brains turn to mush in the heat, it's a fact.

A brochure for a fan, and a daily sojourn to my room for a little nap plus air con blast after lunch became essential survival tools for the week, averaging daily maximums of 32 degrees C.

The week was packed with classes, ensemble sessions, rehearsals etc. which mostly I observed, all in Italian, so a little tedious not being able to participate more, but I did lead one session, on some improvisation things, which was fun. And I also presented a session on South African jazz vocalists. It was great to be able to expand my 10-min Helsinki conference blip of a presentation to a full 2 hour chat with lots of listening, videos and questions from the singers, all of whom had a good go trying their tongues at words with clicks in them!! Hopefully some SA Jazz Vocal artists will have a good few downloads of their albums on iTunes etc from Italy.

The Arcevia singers were joined by some other singers organised by Susanna to learn Nomfundo Xaluva's gorgeous piece, Bayathetha, and they did a stellar job learning the Xhosa and singing in beautiful harmony, ably led by Susanna.

Arcevia Jazz Feast Vocalists

Susanna had organised for us to perform at the Jesi Jazz Festival, so a rehearsal with lovely Gui, and fab Italian musicians Gabriele on bass, Roberto on drums, Mike, Susanna and I.

We had also conscripted the irrepressible Ninon (whom I had met a couple of years prior, at a little gig in Paris, how small the world is) to join us on flute and bandoneon, simply because she's awesome, and regardless of the fact that she was in Arcevia on holiday visiting her partner Tiziano, who was running a Shiatsu group in tandem with the Jazz camp. A merry band indeed, it was a great gig, so wonderful to share music with great players, and the choir sounded fantastic.

Jesi Jazz Festival with Susanna Stivali.
Photo by Binci Photography

Other highlights of the week included four Shiatsu sessions with the lovely Abretta, and experiencing an Arcevia town festival: long tables were set up all the way down one of the streets and the local people were out in force eating and drinking. The best part were all the old fashioned games laid out for people to play.


Our UCT representative students seem to have had a marvelous time overall. What a great experience for all.

The week culminated in the

teachers concert on the Saturday evening, students on the Sunday. Loooooong concert - every ensemble played a few numbers. Was great to hear all the work people had done with their groups over the 6 days.

Big thanks to Samuele, director of the festival, who doesn't stop working, for having me at Arcevia Jazz Feast, and the wonderful Gorana, knower of things and speaker of English.

This is the website for the festival: http://www.arceviajazzfeast.it/ajf2/

A final ciao to everyone, left cheek kiss first then right and eventually we left with Susanna, car packed to bursting: me, SA students for a lift to the train, all the luggage, a million real books and the blessed fan.

the World in Grahamstown

What an intense, inspiring and exhausting 10 days it was: to name it in full (deep breath): The Standard Bank National Jazz Festival, incorporating the National Youth Jazz Festival. I totally love the Arts Festival at Grahamstown - there are many fond and marvellous memories of each one I have attended (since the first with a Carpenters Show in 1995). With so much theatre, music, ballet, art, all swirling about in one place I am in absolute heaven. (Although whenever I go as part of the Jazz festival there is little time for me to take in all the plays I eagerly mark in my program... this year I saw only one. I am threatening to go next year purely as an audience member... which I haven't managed to do in all my years of festival-going!)

The jazz part of the Festival has grown into an incredible microcosm of International relations interwoven with a vibrant Youth Element. This year was no disappointment - some of the world's best and SA's finest met and made music together.
Musical highlights for me personally: Danilo Perez (Panama) with Hein Van De Geyn (Netherlands) Frode Nymo (Norway) and Kesivan Naidoo (SA) What spontaneous joy, what excitement and breath-catching glee!
Hein van de Geyn (love Hein) playing in duo with delightful singer Paulien Van Schaik, from Holland. Exquisite exquisite exquisite.
The Cape All Stars with the inimitable Robbie Jansen - how lucky I count myself to have caught that concert, 2 weeks before Robbie left this world.

And of course my own concerts. The other two members of my trio from Japan - the a.s.k trio - journeyed across oceans to play together in South Africa for the first time. Seigo Matsunaga (Japan) and Sebastiaan Kaptein (Netherlands, and now Japan) are my wonderful co-collaborators in this project, and I was eager to show them off to my friends, fans and colleagues here in SA. We did two concerts in Grahamstown, and two in Cape Town. And in between there was a whole lot of enthusiastic soccer-watching, some sight-seeing, a little beer-drinking-via-vuvuzela and even a bit of Game viewing at Addo Elephant Park (my thanks to the giraffe for their spectacular late entrance, timing was impeccable, what a finale!)
Our concerts went off really well ( it is always great to play to a capacity audience at the Nassau Centre in Cape Town - thanks to the endeavours of organiser, Cliff Wallis). It was truly gratifying, and humbling, to receive comments like "Your music is healing" and "Your trio is so organic." Although ideally we're all supposed to believe in what we do, disregarding the opinions of others, the truth of the matter is that comments like these help so much to confirm that something is working as it should...

The real highlight of the SBN Jazz festival at Grahamstown, for me, is being involved with the Youth Jazz festival. This year was no exception - hundreds of young, talented musicians from around the country descended upon the Halls and classrooms of the DSG School Campus, bringing with them their energy and enthusiasm, and interacting and teaching them is a true privilege.

This year's festival was alive with many wonderful international singers - how lucky were we to interact with such remarkable people. The singing students' swelled to number around 80, as we were joined by 20 young singers from Germany, who were visiting as part of the Young Voices Of Brandenburg, together with their director, Marc Secara (who is no slouch in the singing department himself). Workshops were often convened under the big tree near the fountain under the wintry sun, as our little room could barely hold the numbers. The workshops included exercises in free vocal expression conducted by French singer Lucia Recio, memory and warm-up games involving physical collages led by Marc, coaching sessions accompanied by a professional (and patient) rhythm section with German singer Natascha Roth and Paulien Van Schaik, and an inspirational talk from Sibongile Khumalo (the students are still in awe...) .

And a very proud teacher was I at this year's festival for numerous reasons (and number them, I shall):
1. 3 out of the four singing students to make it to the final selection of the National Youth Band were UCT students.
2. Sandile Gontsana, one of my post-graduate students was the person the panel selected.
3. Sandile was no less than cooking on his National Youth Band performance! He has not been dubbed the Scatman for nothing!
4. My newly established (6 months old) UCT Jazz Vocal Ensemble was selected as the best Ensemble at UCT, and were sponsored by the UCT College of Music to go to Grahamstown to perform.
5. They worked so very very hard, rehearsing every day for over a month. And it showed - their performance was spectacular! Watch out New York Voices...
6. My 2010 Festival Youth Choir sang so beautifully - not an easy task to master unfamiliar jazz vocal harmonies in just a few days. (The choir comprised only High School Students - I tell you South Africans have the gift of song in abundance)

The Vocal Celebration Concert on the last evening of the Youth Festival was a vibrant affair. So marvellous to witness the excitement of these young singers as they took the stage to swing their stuff. Various soloists, a duet from two talented High School singers, the UCT Ensemble, and we closed the evening with 3 songs from our Festival Youth Choir, who absolutely sang their hearts out. As Paulien said to me afterwards "You are so lucky to be part of this - the joy on their faces is so precious". Precious indeed.

Hamba kakuhle umhlobo wam

My manager and friend, the indomitable Martin Drake, left this world on 19 March 2010, and left a gaping hole in the lives of his family, friends and the artists (2 of us) he had been championing.
I was grateful to have spoken to him earlier that Friday. And after I got the call from his wife on Friday night, I sat in silence for a long time. Out of the silence came a simple melody, and this song.
I hope to pay tribute to Martin this Sunday when I sing this at the Cape Town International Jazz Festival. Just hope to be able to keep myself together a little better than I did when I sang it at his memorial service. Crying and singing do not work at the same time. Well no matter, I will be crying-singing it for you Mart.

Requiem
Lala umhlobo wam
ngoxolo 'mhlobo wam.
Lala ngoxolo 'mhlobo wam
In the madness of this frenzied world.
Where the preying vultures circle and wait.
When it seems I sing my songs a-lone,
And I think I've lost my faith.
It comes softly through the passing days
That I'll never walk my path alone.
There is one more guardian at my side to stand me by.
Lala umhlobo wam
ngoxolo 'mhlobo wam.
Lala ngoxolo 'mhlobo wam
And I cannot find the words this night
That could sketch a life lived so very large.
How do you tell in simple words?
Of the brightness of one star.
As I sit in silence and reflect,
It is clear to me that I've been blessed.
I've been championed by the very best,
He stood me by
And so this thought I hold to my heart:
Embrace each precious day.
And live in colour don't be afraid
To give your love with open hands.
Ndicula
Lala umhlobo wam
ngoxolo 'mhlobo wam.
Lala ngoxolo 'mhlobo wam

watch out here it comes

Another year has whisked by, here we sit in the big 2010. SA's year of world attention. It feels like 2009 flashed by in a rather unheralded blur, but this year holds the promise of so very much for me, and I hope for many. Have not published this blog before, (wrote the odd post and left it languish in the cyber-ether) but having enjoyed reading the blogs of a few other writers, thought perhaps it would be an interesting way to connect with people. And something of an outlet too, perhaps.

So I took myself off for a few days, on a solitary sojourn to farmlands and wide wide spaces. An attempt to replenish what 2009 has drained from me, and to find some peace before a very busy year begins in earnest. What a marvellous thing to do, so enjoyed long walks (albeit accompanied by an ever faithful troop of flies) and long periods of sitting and staring and listening (it is not quiet - but the sounds are a perfect soundtrack) and more sitting, and some writing. I made my first braai, all by my lone, so proud of my perfectly cooked sausages and delectable roasted vegetables.

Now here comes the year charging at me head on:
Newly appointed Jazz Vocal Lecturer at UCT am I, with so many ideas and plans.
I will perform on the Cape Town International Jazz Festival for the first time, with my trio. SO excited, but cannot quite find the music yet. Trusting that it will come soon. Plans to record this project in a live concert....
A new acoustic project underway, with my favourite guitarist and mad genius, Dave Ledbetter, oh he-of-newly-discovered-alternate-tunings. Plans to record this project too...
And now planning and setting up my annual Jazz In The Park Fund Raising concert for the Health and Wellness Centre, with my littleBIGband. Publicity, poster design, arrangements to write, band rehearsals....so much so much.
Far into the year plans to try and bring my fellow a.s.k trio band-mates over to SA from Japan. They are jumping up and down with excitement about watching some world cup soccer, so we hope to combine that with a few concerts, and possibly a recording too. Maybe they'll even see a bit of Cape Town in between...
Seigo (bass player and mover-shaker) is already putting things in place for another Asia tour for us in September, with gigs in Tokyo again (yippee!!) and a possible Jazz Festival on a South Korean Island.
Not The Midnight Mass plans also afoot, what fun, and I will be also assisting Graham Weir with orchestrating his new Opera later in the year.
And oh, in between all of this a whole bunch of teaching will be going on.... Somewhere perhaps I'll get to go and watch some plays, a movie or two, mow the lawn...
Man, I tell ya, I bless each and every day of this life of mine - so very privileged am I to do what I do.

Solitary days meld as drops upon a windowpane

Solitary days meld as drops upon a windowpane
Running jagged, then halting, then running
Each day a gift of quietude and freedom;
Each night a solemn reminder.
Joyous solo hours
Stretch over a yawning canvas.
Yearning’s voice entices;
Thoughts lean toward another
But wide-stretched arms of sovereign choice are louder
And I fall grinning into their embrace.

Lives of Others

I had a conversation with one of my students today, about what we do in our spare time. Got me to thinking about my life and choices. Never have been much of a party person, and love to spend time quietly at home pottering, writing, working, music this n that. And then if I go out, it is to a movie, a theatre show a friend's house for tea. In my student's eyes, I guess that's the boring life of someone older. (Am I that much older? - I suppose I'm getting there) Only thing is I've been living that way since my early twenties. And I'm still not bored.
What is with our perception of other people's lives being so much more intriguing than our own? Ah perhaps they are. Seems to me we all fill our lives with so much activity, emphasis on doing doing doing. When do we find time for being?

First one

So, new to this blog idea, but drawn to the possiblity of dear-diarying on my beloved pc.
Here we are here we are. Today a peaceful day mostly. Weeding the backyard and tea in the garden and naps in the afternoon, what I life I lead. Next week to Mauritius, hoowee can't wait. Keep having to remind myself that its work, and not play, songs to learn. What songs? Don't even know yet.... But I have new swimming atire. And thats whats important.

Tonight went to a CD launch, a young up-and-apparently-coming blues guitarist. Horrendous. Just loud and wheedli wheedli wheedli and no songs. Everyone being polite afterwards saying "He's so talented" instead of he's so loud and there are no songs. Nice voice no tunes, sigh. Or as John the Hippie said: Boring. Why was I there I asked myself, and the truth being only that the keyboard player is my friend and she borrowed my keyboard stand and I wanted to pick it up afterwards. I should really stay away from these things he he.

Strange and vivid dreams. Last night dreamt of men in Yeldham Road with machine guns, and I was trying to find a cupboard in which to hide. This, of course, a direct result of watching the last 4 episodes of 24 (season I forget) in a row. Haven't been watching anything remotely violent for a while, so in the images creep into my head at night again. Gotta stick to art movies and childrens stories! And the night before I fell out of bed, yes and bruised my elbow. Found myself standing at the end of my bed staring at the bedclothes heart beating wildy, cos I thought a huge spider-creature had jumped on me. Took an age to sink into awake and realise there was never anything there. How bizarre. Last time I fell out of bed I was about 11 and I rolled out of my top bunk onto the floor and woke up laughing. Beats spiders hands down. Legs down. Whatever.

Time for sleep what dreams await...